1. Pay Attention to materials used…
Pay as much attention to the quality of the materials used in the framing process as the attention you use to choose your frame.
2. Ultra-violet Filtered Glazing…
Choose a glass or plexi-glass (plastic) covering for your artwork that has an ultra-violet filter. This will help to keep your artwork from fading.
3. Acid-free Matting…
All mats that come in contact with your artwork should be acid-free; preferably made from cotton. This will eliminate the acid found in regular wood pulp mats and prevent that ‘burn’ (brown) line found on art over the years.
4. Air space for Art…
It is better not to place glass directly on the art. It causes the art to heat up (dry and crack). Your art needs a little air space to breathe. With pastel, chalk or charcoal, this is especially true. The static field of the glass will pull any loose chalk from the surface of the art and stick it to the inside of the glass…causing the glass to look foggy.
5. Acid-free Backing and Support…
Your art should be placed on acid-free foamcore and/ or matting. This will eliminate the acid burn (discoloration) that comes from using cardboard or wood backing. It will keep your art fresh.
6.Frame Depth…
If you have a stretched canvas piece (original or giclee), make sure the chosen frame is deep enough to cover the stretcher bars. It looks unfinished to see part of a painting poking out the back of your frame.
7.Shadow Boxes…
When working with many different objects for a shadow box, make sure to measure your highest object to determine the frame depth. Many deep frames are unfinished on the inside and may require a mat covering for a more finished look.
8.Frame Width…
The width of a frame should be strong enough to support the size of the artwork. A ½” wide frame would not be a safe support for a 3’ x 3’ piece. The bigger the piece, the wider the frame should be.
9. Plastic Coated Wire….
Living so close to the ocean, the wire used to hang your art should be plastic coated. With time and moisture, regular braided wire will rust and break.
10. 2 Hooks to Hang…
That ‘big’ earthquake is always coming. Use 2 hooks, as far away from center, to secure your frame to the wall. On 1 hook, the art is usually knocked off the wall on the first rumble. 2 hooks keep the art to the wall.
Pay as much attention to the quality of the materials used in the framing process as the attention you use to choose your frame.
2. Ultra-violet Filtered Glazing…
Choose a glass or plexi-glass (plastic) covering for your artwork that has an ultra-violet filter. This will help to keep your artwork from fading.
3. Acid-free Matting…
All mats that come in contact with your artwork should be acid-free; preferably made from cotton. This will eliminate the acid found in regular wood pulp mats and prevent that ‘burn’ (brown) line found on art over the years.
4. Air space for Art…
It is better not to place glass directly on the art. It causes the art to heat up (dry and crack). Your art needs a little air space to breathe. With pastel, chalk or charcoal, this is especially true. The static field of the glass will pull any loose chalk from the surface of the art and stick it to the inside of the glass…causing the glass to look foggy.
5. Acid-free Backing and Support…
Your art should be placed on acid-free foamcore and/ or matting. This will eliminate the acid burn (discoloration) that comes from using cardboard or wood backing. It will keep your art fresh.
6.Frame Depth…
If you have a stretched canvas piece (original or giclee), make sure the chosen frame is deep enough to cover the stretcher bars. It looks unfinished to see part of a painting poking out the back of your frame.
7.Shadow Boxes…
When working with many different objects for a shadow box, make sure to measure your highest object to determine the frame depth. Many deep frames are unfinished on the inside and may require a mat covering for a more finished look.
8.Frame Width…
The width of a frame should be strong enough to support the size of the artwork. A ½” wide frame would not be a safe support for a 3’ x 3’ piece. The bigger the piece, the wider the frame should be.
9. Plastic Coated Wire….
Living so close to the ocean, the wire used to hang your art should be plastic coated. With time and moisture, regular braided wire will rust and break.
10. 2 Hooks to Hang…
That ‘big’ earthquake is always coming. Use 2 hooks, as far away from center, to secure your frame to the wall. On 1 hook, the art is usually knocked off the wall on the first rumble. 2 hooks keep the art to the wall.
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